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Under normal circumstances, small (thin) needles should be used for sewing thin, brittle and dense sewing materials, and large (thick) needles should be used for sewing thick, soft and sparse sewing materials. The thick needle for sewing thin material will be caused by the large friction between the needle and the sewing material. When the needle is raised, the sewing needle will rise in the presser foot, delaying the formation of the loop, thus causing the jump stitch; If the fine needle is selected during the material, it will be very important to select the needle scientifically and reasonably for the clothing style of the needle bending or broken needle, different fabrics and different sewing parts.
At present, the high-speed sewing machine for sewing processing can reach a speed of 5000 rpm, and the speed of the needle penetrating the fabric can reach 4 m / s. In such a high-speed sewing process, the sharp friction of the needle and the sewing machine will be As a result, the needle needle temperature is too high, and a serious melt hole may be formed in the chemical fiber fabric or the chemical fiber suture may be melted, and the resistance of the needle hole crossing line may be increased, so that the condition of the needle thread breaking condition is deteriorated, and the clothing style of the jump stitch or the broken thread is different. It is very important to choose the needle scientifically and reasonably for the fabric and the different sewing parts.
During the sewing process, the needle passing through the fabric at high speed may cut the yarn in the fabric at any time to cause mechanical damage to the fabric. Serious mechanical damage may cause the strength of the fabric and the seam to decrease, affecting the appearance and durability of the garment. Generally speaking, The fabrics with high density, tight structure and mechanical reinforcement of the reinforced fabric are more prominent in the sewing process, while the sewing damage of the staple fiber yarn fabric is relatively slight.
In recent years, in order to adapt to the diversification of the performance of apparel fabrics, especially the "new synthetic fiber" fabrics emerge in an endless stream, the garment industry has transformed the shape of the needle bar and the shape of the needle tip. For example, U-shaped cross-section needles made by “Shengjia†using flow extrusion technology have a needle bar strength that is 90% higher than that of conventional round-section needles. The "IT" series of needles developed by the Japanese "Accord" company can reduce vibration and play a good role in preventing jump stitches. The “NS†series of needles introduced by “Qinqin†has a thin and long needle tip, which is designed to solve the problem of seam wrinkling and spinning in chemical fiber fabrics. In order to solve the problem of needle thermal damage, the needle is directly blown, the shape of the needle tip is changed, and the streamline groove is formed on the needle bar, and the air through hole cooling device with the hollow needle is developed; the surface of the needle is specially treated even if it occurs Melting does not adhere to the needle. In addition to the introduction of chrome-plated needles, Groz, which has 150 years of needle-making experience, has also introduced titanium-plated nitrogen alloys and nickel-Teflon alloy needles to meet the diverse fabrics.
The development of sewing machinery lies in intelligence and automation
In terms of its development, sewing machines are mostly concentrated on the application of electromechanical and liquid gas integration, the adoption of oil-free or micro-oil lubrication systems, the application of direct-drive motors, the application of computer multi-program control methods, the design and application of personalized industrial modeling, etc. Etc. These all push the development of the sewing machine to its peak. For China's sewing machinery manufacturers, there have been many automatic bag openers, oil-free direct drive sewing machines, double needle corner integrated feed sewing machines, single needle side slitting sewing machines, electronically controlled high speed knotting machines, small square head series Sewing machines and the like have realized a new leap in the sewing machine. Sewing machine is an indispensable tool for sewing garments. Different garment fabrics have different sewing performance. In addition to sewing machine and its mechanism, fabric sewing performance, sewing thread, sewing machine needle and sewing process parameters (such as presser foot) Pressure, suture tension, stitch density, feed dog height, etc.). For example, a sewing needle is one of the main sewing machines. The needle tip shape, needle bar shape and surface treatment process have an absolute influence on the appearance of the seam. Since the needle is in direct contact with the fabric during the sewing process, if the needle is used improperly, the following problems may occur: jumper, broken thread, seam wrinkling, drawing, large needle eye, high-speed friction, causing the needle body to heat up, resulting in a fusible stitch And the phenomenon of yarn. A comprehensive understanding of the shape, specifications, material, hardness, elasticity and use of the sewing machine needle is very important for scientifically and rationally selecting the needle for different clothing styles, different fabrics and different sewing parts.